I searched out the most Japanese establishment to try my hand at chopsticks.
The menu was in the window; a colourful display of plastic. You still couldn't be sure what you were about to eat, but at least it gave you a rough idea of what to expect.
My selection looked like large liquorice allsorts and later turned out to be rice wrapped in seaweed. My other selections were pink sections of raw fish and some deep-fried vegetables.
Sapporo was the local beer; I chose a bottle of that.
Air-conditioned buses and subways made a welcome break from the damp and muggy city. My street-map began to look like Les Patterson's shirt-front, and I had superimposed my own brand of animated cartography.
I had begun to navigate from subway stations like a native; it was time to move on to the uncharted.